Drainage

Managing stormwater is important to prevent a risk of flooding to your property and to ensure that the wastewater is properly stored so that it doesn’t return to the environment untreated. 

Things to consider:

Stormwater drainage goes from your downpipes to your water tanks.
It is important to remember that it also includes a short upstand for each downpipe connection and the vertical rise of your water tank, therefore the length of drainage on you invoice will be more than just the distance from the downpipes to the water tanks.

The size of your roof and spouting.
Residential drainage typically uses 100mm DWV pipe; if you have a large roof area, a single drain may be insufficient for handling the flow. If it is done wrong your spouting will overflow every time it rains.

Your water tank setup is not complete without an overflow. This handles the excess water during high rainfall and safely discharges it onsite. A poorly designed overflow can cause scouring, slippage, and other expensive damage to your property.

Depending on your site and soil there are a few different options to consider:

Rip Rap
Constructed with large rocks and used on large properties to disperse theflow.

Surface Spreader Bar
The most basic and used on larger properties or when discharging near a water course.

Buried Spreader Bar
Used on smaller sites with reasonable soakage, or when discharging away from a water course.

Soak Pit
More complex design for small sites, it handles the flow and allows it to slowly soak away.

Wastewater drainage connections run from the house to the wastewater treatment system. Everything under the floor is done by the plumber and everything outside of the walls is done by a drainlayer.

As the installation of a wastewater system requires a registered drainlayer, it is a simple matter to do the drainage while we are onsite.

The drainage will include gully traps and inspection points as required, everything will be professionally laid to the correct gradient and bedded with metal. The drainlayer will arrange all the necessary council inspections to get it signed off as compliant, so you don’t need to worry about the hassle.

• Minimum 1:60 gradient
• Minimum depth of 300mm below soil
• Or else a minimum depth of 100mm below concrete
• Inspection points
• Correct bedding and side support